How Ellen von Unwerth's photography reveals genuine, liberated women

"No matter if they are commercial or editorial shots, powerful storytelling is definitely her signature style," said Sebastien Plantin, curator of "Ladyland" at Opera Gallery in London's Mayfair. The show includes '90s icons such as Kate Moss (pictured), Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell in playful, sensual, feminine visuals that are hallmarks of von Unwerth's photographic oeuvre.

Born in 1954 in Frankfurt, Ellen von Unwerth lost her parents at an early age. Despite having a dramatic start to life, von Unwerth's life changed at age 20 when a photographer spotted her in Munich and invited her to pose in front of the camera. She moved to Paris and worked as a model for 10 years before she discovered her love of photography.

In 1989, von Unwerth was working for British fashion designer, Katharine Hamnett, as a photographer. In the same year, two major forces in the fashion industry would come together. Ellen von Unwerth discovered Claudia Schiffer and essentially launched her career with iconic photos from this Guess campaign. Von Unwerth's own photography career was also kickstarted by the collaboration.

"Her pictures are not only aesthetically pleasant, but they are also educational because they express a more sophisticated approach to femininity. In Ellen's photographic world, women can stand alone and be in control, they are self-assured and emancipated from the male figure," explained Plantin, in understanding von Unwerth's role within the context of the #MeToo movement.

"I always organize my shoots like movies. Initially I have a narrative in my mind, it can often be a mixture of inspirations, and I can work from that. Which means, I can write a little story, then cast the people accordingly, choose the location and the crew, and always work with music on set that fits the story," said von Unwerth in the catalog for her show.

Von Unwerth has been known to capture her subjects in the most genuine moments, and she has admitted that she has continued to photograph them when they believed the shoot was over. Her artistic ideology reflects her own life: "My creative philosophy is very simple and includes everything I do: I love life and I love to capture it. I want to share it with people now and for generations to come."

Von Unwerth garners inspiration from a variety of places. "I take pictures all the time and I am always thinking about new narratives to feed my work," von Unwerth said. "I am lucky that I get inspired by many various sources in life: art, cinema, music, fashion of course, but also people in general, a scene that I see on the street, some paparazzi pictures among many things."

Plantin explained how the name of the show, "Ladyland," was inspired: "Originally the title was different, but one day Ellen called me in one of her Eureka moments, as she had dreamt of the perfect name for the show: Ladyland. It's emblematic of the world of wonders and delight that her photos encapsulate."

Having produced innumerable photos over a long-running career, von Unwerth has witnessed a shift in audience opinion. "People's reactions, which reflect the perceptions that they have, have evolved tremendously in the past number of years," she said. "What was provocative back then is considered normal today. For example, when I shot two women kissing 30 years ago, people found it shocking."

Von Unwerth had been a model in front of the camera before she went behind the lens, and this experience differentiates her from male contemporaries, Plantin believes. "Sometimes male photographers seem to patronize female models, whereas it appears to me that Ellen has an equal, genuine and authentic approach with her sitters."